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I've been interested in 3D printing for a while now.  There have been a lot of projects I've worked on where being able to 3D print a piece would have been very helpful.  Additionally, I just really like the idea of modeling almost anything and then creating it exactly.

However, my personal projects don't really warrant buying a pre-built 3D printer outright.  So I started looking into building one of my own.  At the time, the options were limited and the volume sizes where small.  I have no idea what I'll be printing, but I want as much versatility as possible.

Then I came across the Ingentis.  The design allows for any size volume as long as you have the stability and power.  I also really like the that most of the movement when printing is done by a small print head and the base (z axis) only moves once per layer.  It seems like a very solid design.

I was a little skeptical that I could build one though, since you need to 3D print a lot of the parts for it and the instructions are sparse.  But then I found the Eustathios variant and a very active Google+ community behind it and further variants.  This variant looks amazing, comes with a full schematic, and the creator is active in the community.  This is the printer that I've finally decided to build.

Since I've started this project, version 2 of the Eustathios 3D printer has been created and published. Some, but by no means all, of the printed parts are interchangeable. I recommend using that version or at least those parts that are the same in both, as many improvements have been made.

A finished Eustathios 3D printer (Source: YouImagine)

As I go through this journey, I'll be posting my progress here in hopes of helping others prevent the many mistakes I know I'll be making and to maybe create step by step instructions from it all at the end.

 

Blog Posts

The good news is I found these instructions for connecting power to the RAMBo controler http://mtw.dozuki.com/Guide/Wiring+Rambo+Electronics+%26+Power+Supply/5.  They use a very cool IEC socket with fuse and LED switch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NM0M8W8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.  I've since ordered that part online. The bad news is I found those instructions AFTER I believe I made a fatal mistake.  In the RAMBo v1.3 manual, it explicitly states that "!!!…
Parts Assembly (Part 1)
I started assembling the parts and hardware together this week.  I've run into a couple of problems, some I was able to overcome, others required different hardware.  Before I get into those problems though, let's talk about what went right.  Putting together the print bed was fairly straight forward.  Unfortunately, it's not 100% complete yet.  The linear bearing slot takes M2 25mm bolts to close it, so I had to order those. DSCN0112 2.JPG DSCN0111 2.…
Frame Assembly (Part 2)
As I anticipated, I've made some mistakes.  The first mistake was how I attached the brackets to the bottom crossbars.  The picture on the left below is how I originally installed them (the frame is upside-down).  The brackets are on the bottom of the crossbars.  This will prevent the XY motor mounts from being attached. So I unscrewed all of those brackets and moved them to be above (when the frame is right-side-up).  The picture on the right shows the correct configuration. DSCN0109 copy.…
While waiting for some more parts to arrive this weekend, I started messing around with the electronics.  First, I assembled the E3D V6 hot end using this video.  It was very informative and had some good tips at the end on how to start printing. I also took an old computer power cable and canibalized it for my power supply.  No instructions came with it, so I looked online to confirm the correct attachments.  From right to left, it goes black, white, then green.  The rest are the output power.…
Frame Assembly (Part 1)
Please see Frame Assembly (Part 2) before following these instructions completely as they have a mistake in them. My Misumi USA order arrived last week.  I was VERY surprised to find out that all of the crossbars were already tapped with M5 threading and the vertical bars had the correct holes at 1cm (2), 9.5cm (1), and 45.3cm (2) in them to access the bolt heads at the ends of the crossbars.  This means I didn't have to do the work I discussed in Researching How to Tap Aluminum Extrusion.…

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